How to use a Hi-Lift jack

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Note: The initial post was originally done by Mekcanix (John) on our old forum.

Really cool artical on the "Proper" use of a Hi-LIft andhow valuable a tool and safety device it is. Figure others may find this interesting.

Overland Journal: Jack of all Trades

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When looking to buy safety equipment, such as a Hi-Lift jack, do not try to save a little buying a no-name equivalent. They don't cost very much as it is and if you are that cheap, Princess Auto has reoccurring sales for Hi-Lift branded jacks that let you pick them up 25-50% off.

That being said, there is a Canadian farm/industrial jack that looks very similar to Hi-Lift jacks called a Jackall 8000. They used to be available with a 60" bar and I've read they were the only NATO approved jack (probably earned from it's higher weight capacity). The new ones are made in China. I have no idea how they stack up in comparison to the originals but I know this because I bent the original made in Canada 60" Jackall 8000 bar and had to buy my father in Alberta a replacement Jackall. He had used the thing for quite a few decades in the bush and around the farm and it took one good Jeep stuck for me to ruin the bar. LOL. To be honest, I did have it nearly maxed out on an angle while I was lifting the tail end of my JK out of a silt filed river bottom. Would the bar have failed in ideal conditions, probably not, and in it's defence I did watch the bar flex quite a bit before it finally failed and bent 90 degrees. Cost wise, the 48" bar Jackall was the same as a full price High-Lift at Princess Auto.

Which would I buy?
Hi-Lift due to greater availability, lots of accessories, and the ability to buy individual components easier. I do recommend a 48" bar due to the scenarios we tend to get ourselves into, amy experience with a longer bar failing, and being very unwieldy to move around a 60" bar and jack. I do however invite more experienced members to chime in on my recommendation.

http://www.hi-lift.com

High-Lift Jack Models

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