Legal Requirements of Lift kits

[Brandon Majcher]

Okay so my stock suspension is going so i decided to buy a lift kit (preferably 4") but i know there are rules and regulations on them but I don't know what this means or how to find out if i am able to even lift my 07 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara:

"20.13 In the case of any truck or multi-purpose passenger vehicle with a gross vehicle weight of 4500 k. or less, the following shall apply:

Raised Vehicle: The front tread width divided by the sum of the frame height at its highest point, and any body lift shall not be less than 1.80 for vehicles with wheelbase of 254 cm. (100 in.) or more and not less than 2.00 for vehicles with a wheelbase of less than 254 cm. (100 in.). (TJ = 93.4 in)
Lowered Vehicle: No part of the chassis or the steering components of the vehicle shall extend below the rim of the wheel or come in contact with the road surface if all four tires are flat.

Fig. 39-8. Tread width is distance between centre points of left tire tread and right tire tread. Measurements are taken from frame centre line to centre of tire in each case to establish correct frame-to-wheels relationship."

Someone with a little bit of experience please help cause this is my DD and I don't want tickets. I would rather do it right the first time than get tickets. If it comes down to not being able to lift it then I guess ill stick with stock (I think I can because I see tons of lifted truck and Jeep wranglers all around Winnipeg that have bigger lifts than 4")
Thanks
- Brandon

[TheHurricane]

To the letter of the law. Any lift is technically illegal. There is a mathematical formula that calculates how high your tallest point of you frame can be and it is based on your length and track width.

Almost every modification is technically illegal or can be ticketed in some fashion

[LOBSTER]

Great question!

JKU > 100" wheelbase so you will divide your track width by 1.8 (as opposed to 2). This number is the highest the top of your frame rail can be at it's highest point in the rear wheel wells.

MPI defines track width by measuring outside of one tire in the front to inside of the other (use portion that touches road surface for this)

Example: my stock set up is basically 62.5" wide, I am a JKU like you, so the highest my rear wheel well frame rail can be is 62.5" ÷ 1.8 = 34.7222" (equivalent JK would be ÷ 2 = 31.25"). Right now it is about 27' to the top of my frame rail which means I can increase over 7.5" (+4.25" in a JK). Tire size diameter increases are 1/2 what the diameter changes... so 32 to 35 nets 1.5". Lifts tend to add a little more than advertised because they are based on fully armoured up rigs. So you are shooting for net change. Provided track width does not get bigger (usually wider tires and less backspacing in wheels will make it bigger, helping equation) I could add 4" of lift and change my tires from 32 to 39's and be a legal lift... but this makes me a modified vehicle which has its own set of rules. Yup, that's basically 40's and a 3.5" lift. This is why some get the JKU over a 2 door.

For tire coverage you must account for tread in contact with road, side wall and side lugs don't matter, when you look from the top of the flare. Coverage to the front needs to be 15° (seldom an issue as that is like 11:30 on a clock) and 90° to the back (straight out the middle of your hub back or 3:00). If you don't have this, you can be ticketed so add front and back quick release mud flaps to your build list.

Also bumper height up front may become an issue. Middle of vertical measurement needs to be 22" high and that's where it sits stock (doh!). I've heard others throw some other numbers around but the problem we face in MB is too many levels of conflicting rules. I hope I am just reading the wrong section/guide for that.

Lift height restrictions - check
Tire coverage requirements - check
Front bumper height requirements - may require more digging

Basically put flaps front/back and extend the flares outward and you should be fine.

If you are close to failing height requirement... just lower air pressure in tires to measure legit. There is no requirement that you must run x psi in your tires

Now for trucks... your observation is totally correct. Most lifted trucks you see should be failing safeties for lift height and tire coverage since they're no doubt registered as light trucks and follow the same rules us Jeeps do.

[jdam]

If you are close to failing height requirement... just lower air pressure in tires to measure legit. There is no requirement that you must run x psi in your tires

Great idea! Any idea how much height you lose if you were to air down to 15-18 psi ?

FYI
As of late VIU has been targeting lifted Jeeps, I've already had a close call and not driving my Jeep in the city much until my mud flaps arrive. Seems to be the main excuse for them to stop ya. Then they go from there!

I've been getting some weird looks from fellow Jeepers wondering why a guy driving a Honda is waving at them. The GF has to remind me Im in my street legal leaf blower

[JeepBob]

The lift height thing is easier than it sounds.

I can show you how to do the measurements if you would like to "see" it done.

Most people lift 2.5 to 3.5 and put 33's to 35's on. For the lift... on a JKU, you're good. You just have to worry about the wheel coverage and mudflaps x4. This is done through aftermarket flares, flare extenders, mudflaps, tire width, rim offsets, etc.

Lifting anything more than the 3.5" gets drastically more expensive, because of the domino effect of other issues that will need addressing, like steering, driveshafts, etc. ($$$)

My rig is on a 2.5" suspension lift with a real 34.4" tire. Tire and lift gain gives me about 3.7" total increase over stock.

Building LCOG, low center of gravity - and capable rigs is where it's at. Bigger is not always better, especially if it is a daily driver.

DETACHABLE MUDFLAPS - Click Here <--- In Canada, no PST

[Brandon Majcher]

The lift height thing is easier than it sounds.

I can show you how to do the measurements if you would like to "see" it done.

Most people lift 2.5 to 3.5 and put 33's to 35's on. For the lift... on a JKU, you're good. You just have to worry about the wheel coverage and mudflaps x4. This is done through aftermarket flares, flare extenders, mudflaps, tire width, rim offsets, etc.

Lifting anything more than the 3.5" gets drastically more expensive, because of the domino effect of other issues that will need addressing, like steering, driveshafts, etc. ($$$)

My rig is on a 2.5" suspension lift with a real 34.4" tire. Tire and lift gain gives me about 3.7" total increase over stock.

Building LCOG, low center of gravity - and capable rigs is where it's at. Bigger is not always better, especially if it is a daily driver.

DETACHABLE MUDFLAPS - Click Here <--- In Canada, no PST

So if I say I'll do a 3" lift and I want stay with my stock 255 75 18 wheels and tires I'll be okay and I'll only have to put on mudflaps and I'll be legal?

[Brandon Majcher]

Also if anyone knows a shop that will install a lift kit for me please let me know. I can do it just don't have the time.

[JeepBob]

So if I say I'll do a 3" lift and I want stay with my stock 255 75 18 wheels and tires I'll be okay and I'll only have to put on mudflaps and I'll be legal?

Correct

[El Baja]

Also if anyone knows a shop that will install a lift kit for me please let me know. I can do it just don't have the time.

Jeep Dr.
1225 Manahan

[LOBSTER]

I used Jeep Dr for my WJ lift as I didn't know anyone/anything at the time and had to get it done quick. Very happy with advise on lift and work done there since.

I think River Park Auto may do it for you as well if you have the kit. If not, definitely go see them for a post lift alignment. http://www.riverparkautomotive.ca

[Brandon Majcher]

Thanks everyone for the help. Glad I found a winnipeg based community. Glad to be apart of an awesome community of jeepers. I'll have to come to one of the meetings if I can find time and get off of work.

[LOBSTER]

Also bumper height up front may become an issue. Middle of vertical measurement needs to be 22" high and that's where it sits stock (doh!). I've heard others throw some other numbers around but the problem we face in MB is too many levels of conflicting rules. I hope I am just reading the wrong section/guide for that.

I was mistaken with this requirement... this applies to cars passing light vehicle safety. Trucks need their lowest bumper part no higher than 29". This left me wondering if Jeeps are considered cars or trucks because unless you register it as a truck, back seats removed, it could be classed as a car. When I asked a mechanic I knew he said we are SUVs ... which was not covered in the guide MPI provides for light vehicle safety (under 4,500kg). However, I did dig up the following...

Specialty Vehicle Requirements - MPI & MAAC/NAACC

So for all those who think rear bumpers are not required, you are wrong (unless vehicle had no rear bumper when originally equipped). For the original post author... your bumpers are most likely legal post lift as long as you meet the criteria noted above.

Note: You may need to open image in order to read it.

[El Baja]

Yesterday while working on the Jeep a guy came by the shop from the MB. Motor Vehicles to do some stuff with Paul and after the business was taken care of he came by my JK and was looking it over closely ,He was a nice guy so i got to talking to him about what we were doing and showed him the flares i made and asked him if he thought everything was legal on my rig.He looked it over and measured the wheel stance and said all he could see was no mud flaps so i explained they were quick release and that they just weren't on,then i showed him that i also use them in the front but because now my flares cover the tread that maybe i don't have to use them. He said it's still the law and that i would have to use them on the front and rear.
He also agreed that some police officers don't always ticket for front flaps but not to be surprised if i got one
So i guess what i'm saying is if you got them then use them